Kedougou

In 2007 I took a trip to Dakar in September to get to know the city. When I was preparing the missionary in training program I was using my own experiences in learning about a country to guide me. I decided that part of the program would be a one week journey to some place, perhaps in Senegal but someday perhaps to one of the nations near to Senegal.

I decided on Kedougou because of one day when we had hitched a ride to Ziguinchor with a Senegalese travel agent. I told him of my plans and that I hadn't yet made a decision on where to go but was thinking of Saint Louis or Kedougou. He told me about Kedougou and all of the wonderful places to hike and the things to see. So I decided we would go there.

The transportation aspect of the trip holds many lessons for a young missionary. Getting there took three days on the way there and two days coming back. We stayed over night in Ziguinchor and then in Tambacounda, affectionately called “Tamba.” The journey from Zig to Tamba is eight hours in a seven seater station wagon with other sweaty Senegalese of various sizes. We happened to be in the back seats for most of the trip and God mercifully put us with other smaller type people.

Some of the highlights of traveling were: Oussouye to Zig we were harangued by an overly drunk and excited football fan on his way to a match, it was all in good fun, and wonderful when he descended. On the way to Tamba the break lines in the car had some issue and we drove for many miles while the driver periodically stopped to add break fluid. Through the national park on the way to Kedougou we saw wart hogs and monkeys. We watched till our eyes bugged out for animals and then God pulled some tails and they emerged to make us extremely happy. On the way home through the national park the driver was drifting off to sleep, and then the back of the car started to fish tail like crazy. Erin was peacefully reading and I was super worried. As if worrying can change a thing. Finally the tire blew and the driver became fully alert to change it.

There are no lines for the ladies room while traveling via sept place. The moment the car pulls over for this or that, everyone in the car scatters to a private place in the brush to relieve themselves.

Coming home we were told by the people at the garage in Tamba to arrive at 4:30 a.m. to get a car to Ziguinchor. I missed the part where he said “if” there are clients the driver will go to Ziguinchor otherwise you must change vehicles in the horrible city of Kolda, prayer in action my friends. We decided on arriving at the reasonable hour of 5 a.m. and still that was an hour too early for the Senegalese. I am still not sure if that was all because of Ramadan or if really 4:30 a.m. is total crap. We slept in the backseat of the drivers car until other Zig. clients arrived, and one by one as if each heard by begging prayer that they must go to Ziguinchor today, they wandered into the garage, with that special word, “Ziguinchor!”. Haggling over baggage is a total pain in the butt. Sept place or the seven seater station wagon is the more luxurious and expensive way to travel so the driver and the guys at the garage think you have extra cfa's to spend on your bags. But there is reasonable extra and then there is totally outlandish. Being white were were harassed extra for the baggage money. This driver, in particular, really likes money and wanted twice the reasonable amount, to the point of almost throwing our bags off the sept place because I refused to pay. Finally I gave him half of what he was asking, later he came back for more and I refused to look at him. He left empty handed. We arrived safely to all destinations and fully enjoyed our travel experience, ok at least I did. There was one extra added benefit to our early a.m. arrival in the Tamba garage. I got the premier seat all the way home. Super big time bonus!

After my decision to go to Kedougou was announced, some friends suggested we stay in the guest house of their mission. Many denominations or missions agencies have missions guest houses dotted around the country. We often stay in the WEC guest house in Zinguinchor. We made arrangements to stay in this particular NTM guest house in Kedougou. I used my trusty Lonely Planet to find us a place in Tambacounda. All I can say for that place is, you get what you pay for. We were right next to the garage, clean beds, air conditioning, television, sort of clean towels, a Mobil “On the Run,” next door. It was a great place.

I had spoken by phone to the overseer of the NTM guest house in Kedougou but we had absolutely no idea what to expect. We were following directions like, “find the water tower,” and “follow the fence line.” I didn't know if the place was extremely rural or what. We thought Kedougou must be some really small, no nothing place. Mostly I thought this because it seemed so far removed from other major cities. We followed the fence line and arrived at the most beautiful spot to rejuvenate! Set on a hillside over looking the Gambia River, complete with tire swing in the back yard, the place was perfect. We felt like we stepped into America. We were given a huge apartment with water beds, a selection of hundreds of movies, a bathroom that smelled like my Grandfather's old spice, cold water, recipe books I could spend hours reading, and then there was the announcement of a washing machine, finally the mystery of “the Library.” That's to mention nothing of our new friend Audrey who really went out of her way to help us out and show us a good time. We are so thankful for the hospitality and openness of NTM to missionaries like us who work outside of missions agencies.

If you are wondering what we ate on during our journey, we ate like most backpackers do. After each car ride we took showers and headed out in search of something to eat. We dined on Senegalese cuisine and in the evenings and for breakfast we loaded up on fruit, bread and cheese. Audrey took us out for pork in Kedougou, she invited us to the best pizza I have ever had, and shared a bowl meal with us on the first day. This is just when you take a bowl to a local restaurant and have them fill it with whatever they have prepared for the day and then take it home and eat it. You pay what you would for a single plate of food if you ate at their restaurant but you usually end up with much more rice.

In Tambacounda the Lonely Planet had written about a place called Best Burger where they apparently serve giant hamburgers. (the author has apparently, never been to America) We tried to find the place on our way to Kedougou and found only a local patissarie. I checked the book again and we searched in a different place and found Best Burger. After rousing the waitress from her nap and her calling the cook from wherever he was spending his day waiting for customers, we were served two giant burgers. With tiny pieces of meat inside and lot's and lot's of french fries on a large bun. It was a good burger but not an American burger.

One of the reasons we chose Kedougou for our vacation was the promise of hiking. In reality there is a lot of hiking to be done around Kedougou but you need a good 4WD to do the hiking. We checked into prices and renting a four wheel drive for a mini hike to a mini waterfall was far beyond our reach. Instead we walked along the Gambia River and through the corn fields and a few small villages. Audrey took us to her favorite watering hole and for a great creek hike. We felt very much at home through all of this and had great fun swimming and me, tumbling in the creek. We did see a waterfall and sat underneath it for some time washing away the dirt of the day.

This trip was really a wonderful adventure. I am thankful for all of the provision and safety. The example of Audrey was a strong lesson to be learned. She has served Christ as a missionary for over 25 years in Senegal. There are not many lifers out there any more and being around someone with so much joy to continue serving amidst the hardships of village life in eastern Senegal is a fantastic example. Kudos to you Audrey! Good luck with the library!